In mid December it was c-c-c-o-l-d on the rim of the canyon, under 10 degrees F! El Tovar was all dressed up with wreaths, lights, a Christmas tree and live piano music. The clear sky made for good viewing of the Geminid meteor shower. An afternoon hike to the bottom of the canyon was easy, not slippery at all because the snow stayed so cold that it didn't make ice. A nice warm bed at Phantom Ranch was my home for the evening, giving a good rest before walking back up the following morning in beautiful light.